Timber or alu-clad timber?
Both start as the same pine frame. The difference is what protects the outside face.
Pine is painted or glazed at our factory and can be repainted in any colour later. It is the option most conservation officers prefer on period and listed buildings, because it can be maintained and repaired rather than replaced. It needs repainting when the surface starts to dull, which on a south facing elevation comes round sooner.
Alu-clad pine carries a 1 mm aluminium skin on the outside. The timber inside stays timber, so the room still reads as a wooden window, but the weather never touches the wood. You wash the frame with pH neutral soap a couple of times a year and that is the maintenance done.
Do you make cottage windows in uPVC?
No. Our cottage windows come in pine and alu-clad pine only. If uPVC is what you need, we are not the right supplier and we would rather tell you now than after you have measured up.
Here is the honest comparison. uPVC costs less and never needs painting. On a cottage it has two drawbacks: the bars are usually applied to a wider profile, which reads differently up close, and planning departments frequently refuse it on listed buildings and in conservation areas.
Timber costs more and asks for a coat of paint every few years. In return you get a slimmer sightline, a frame that can be repaired instead of replaced, and a material that passes conservation scrutiny.
If you want the look of timber with the maintenance of aluminium, alu-clad pine sits between the two.
Which cottage window style suits your house?
Start with the grid on the windows you already have, then match the number of panes rather than guessing.
A two or four light window suits small openings, cottage bathrooms and anywhere the wall is thick and the hole is modest. Six and nine light windows are the most common on the front elevation of an English cottage. Twelve light and above suit tall Georgian and Victorian openings, where a fine grid over a large pane is what the elevation expects.
Horizontal bars only, with no vertical divide, give a lower and wider look. That works on long low cottages and barn conversions.
Top glazing bars put the grid in the upper section and leave the lower panes clear. You keep the period detail at eye level from outside and an unbroken view from inside.
Replacing windows in an older cottage
Three things to settle before you order, and only one of them is about the window.
- Check whether the building is listed. If it is, replacing the windows needs listed building consent, and going ahead without it is an offence. Conservation areas are less strict but your council can still have a say on materials and on the number of panes.
- Check the opening, not the old frame. Cottage walls move over a century or two, and openings are rarely square. Measure the brick or stone opening in three places and work from the smallest figure.
- Check what the old window is telling you. If it has six panes and a chunky bar, a six light window with 42 mm or 60 mm bars will look right. If it has a fine grid, go narrower. Copying the grid you already have is almost always the correct answer on an older building.