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How to buy new windows: complete guide

Buying new windows is a six-stage process: decide which windows need replacing and prioritise them, choose the right window type for each room, choose materials and glazing specifications, get multiple quotes from FENSA or Certass registered installers, compare quotes properly (not just headline price), and confirm the installation timeline and warranty. The whole process typically takes 8-16 weeks from initial decision to installation: 2-4 weeks for research and quotes, 4-8 weeks for manufacture, 1–2 weeks for installation. Key decisions are property style (which determines acceptable window types), room function (which determines best opening type), material (PVC, timber, or alu-clad), glazing (double or triple), and installer choice. The biggest mistakes are rushing the decision, taking the lowest quote without comparing specifications, and under-specifying windows on principal elevations.

Summary

  • Six-stage process: prioritise, choose type, choose material/glazing, get quotes, compare, confirm.
  • Typical timeline: 8–16 weeks from decision to installation.
  • Use FENSA or Certass registered installers for compliance certification.
  • Compare specifications, not just prices — quotes vary widely in what they include.
  • Match window type to property style and room function.
  • Plan phased replacement if budget rules out whole-house replacement at once.

Stage 1: decide which windows to replace

Most homeowners over-estimate how many windows need replacement. A careful survey often shows that 40–60% of windows are sound enough to wait several years, even when the house feels generally in need of new windows. Prioritising correctly saves significant budget for the windows that really matter.

Survey every window

Walk through the house with a notepad. For each window, note:

  • Visible condition (frame, glass, seals).
  • Operation (opens cleanly, locks properly).
  • Draught presence (run hand around the closed edges).
  • Between-pane condensation (failed seal in glazing unit).
  • Energy concern (single glazed, or basic 1990s double glazed).
  • Security concern (single-point latch, no key locks).

Categorise windows

  1. Replace now: windows with multiple problems, rotten or warped frames, persistent draughts after seal replacement, failed glazing units.
  2. Replace soon (1–2 years): windows showing 2–3 problems but still functional, where waiting risks worse damage.
  3. Can wait (3–5 years): windows with 1 problem (a single failed seal, mild stiffness) that can be addressed temporarily.
  4. Don't replace: windows in good condition that work properly.

Prioritise within "replace now"

Even within the urgent category, order matters. Replace first:

  • Front elevation windows (visible kerb appeal and likely original character).
  • Main living room and master bedroom windows (biggest comfort impact).
  • North-facing windows (most heat loss, no solar gain to compensate).
  • Windows with safety concerns (broken glass, failed locks on accessible windows).

Less-used rooms (guest bedrooms, utility rooms) can often wait even if their windows are in similar condition, because the comfort impact is lower.

Stage 2: choose window types

Window type — casement, sash, tilt-and-turn, picture, etc. affects both appearance and function. For period properties, the property style usually narrows the choice significantly.

Start with property style

Property period and architectural character determine which window types are appropriate. Listed buildings and conservation areas have specific requirements; unlisted period properties have more flexibility but still benefit from sympathetic choices.

Then consider room function

Different rooms benefit from different window types. Bedrooms may suit tilt-and-turn for cleaning access; bathrooms suit small awning windows; living rooms benefit from large casements or picture windows. The "How to choose window type" guide covers this in detail.

Plan for mixed type

Few homes use only one window type throughout. Most benefit from 2–4 different types matched to different rooms and elevations. Trying to use a single type everywhere usually means over-specifying some rooms and under-specifying others.

Stage 3: choose materials and glazing

Material decision

  • PVC: lowest maintenance, lowest cost, widely available — suits modern properties and budget-conscious projects.
  • Pine timber: traditional appearance, requires periodic refinishing — suits period properties where ongoing maintenance is acceptable.
  • Meranti timber: hardwood with better dimensional stability than pine, longer between refinishing.
  • Alu-clad timber: timber inside, aluminium outside — best of both worlds for many applications.

Glazing decision

  • Double glazing: standard for most British installations, good thermal performance, lighter than triple.
  • Triple glazing: better thermal performance, valuable in colder regions and energy-conscious homes.
  • Specialist glazing: solar control, laminated, acoustic, self-cleaning for specific applications.

Match specification to position

Premium specifications on principal elevations and main rooms, standard specifications elsewhere. This deploys budget where it has most impact and avoids wasting investment on windows where the difference is invisible.


Stage 4: get quotes

How many quotes to get

Three quotes is the standard recommendation and works well for most projects. More than three usually adds complexity without adding clarity; fewer than three risks missing a significantly better option. For large or complex projects (heritage buildings, large extensions), four to five quotes may be worthwhile.

Where to find installers

  • FENSA register: searchable database of FENSA-registered installers by postcode.
  • Certass register: alternative registration scheme with similar coverage.
  • Trade associations: organisations like the GGF (Glass and Glazing Federation) list reputable members.
  • Recommendations from neighbours, friends, family who have had work done recently.
  • Local property forums and review sites.

What to ask before quoting

  • Are you FENSA or Certass registered? (Can verify online.)
  • What is your typical installation lead time after order?
  • Can you provide examples of similar properties you have done?
  • What is your warranty cover (frame, glazing, hardware, installation)?
  • Do you handle building regulations certification?
  • What is your approach to disposing of the old windows and packaging?

Information to provide for accurate quotes

Quotes are only as good as the information installers receive. Provide:

  • Property type, period and any listed/conservation status.
  • Detailed list of which windows need replacement.
  • Required materials and glazing if you have made these decisions.
  • Photographs of existing windows from inside and outside.
  • Measurements (rough is fine — installers will survey accurately).
  • Any specific requirements (colour, glazing pattern, security level).

Stage 5: compare quotes properly

Why headline price comparison fails

Three quotes for "new windows" can vary by 50% or more without any of them being wrong. The difference reflects different specifications — frame profile, glazing thickness, security level, finish quality, installation approach. Comparing only the headline price ignores what is being compared.

Standardise the comparison

Make a comparison table with these columns for each quote:

  • Frame material and grade.
  • Glazing specification (double or triple, coatings, gas fill).
  • Hardware specification (lock type, cylinder rating, hinge type).
  • Warranty cover (frame, glazing, hardware, installation — separately).
  • Installation timeline.
  • Inclusions (disposal, building regs cert, making good, redecoration).
  • Exclusions (anything not covered that you might assume).
  • Total price (and any payment terms or deposit requirements).

A quote that is 20% higher but includes a substantially better warranty, higher cylinder rating, and full making-good of internal finishes may be the better choice. Compare like for like before deciding.

Red flags in quotes

  • No registration with FENSA or Certass.
  • Pressure tactics ("price valid today only", "act now or miss out").
  • Vague specifications ("double glazing" without thermal rating).
  • Very large deposits requested upfront (more than 25%).
  • Cash-only payment terms.
  • No written quote or scope of work.
  • Unable or unwilling to provide references for similar properties.

Stage 6: confirm the order and installation

Before placing the order

  • Have all key questions been answered in writing?
  • Is the specification clear and matches what you want?
  • Are warranty terms written down explicitly?
  • Is the price firm or could it change?
  • What are the payment milestones (deposit, manufacture, completion)?
  • What is the cancellation policy if circumstances change?

Survey appointment

Most installers send a surveyor to take accurate measurements before manufacture. This is the chance to confirm specifications and catch any misunderstandings before the windows are made. Be present for the survey, walk through every window, and confirm every detail.

Manufacture and lead time

Typical manufacture lead times are 4-8 weeks for standard specifications, 8-12 weeks for custom sizes or finishes, and 12+ weeks for heritage or specialist installations. Plan the installation to follow the manufacture period - windows ordered in October are typically installed in December or January, not always ideal weather for the work.

Installation week

Installation of multiple windows typically takes 1–5 days depending on the number and complexity. Each window typically takes 2-4 hours of actual installation time. Plan for:

  • Disruption - dust, noise, internal access to all rooms with replacement windows.
  • Heating - rooms with windows being replaced will be cold during the installation day.
  • Curtains and blinds - usually need removal beforehand and refitting afterward.
  • Furniture - items near windows may need moving.
  • Internal making good — plaster patching, redecoration of disturbed areas.
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After installation

Certification

FENSA or Certass registered installers register the work with the relevant scheme, providing a certificate that confirms Building Regulations Part L compliance. This certificate is needed if you sell the property later — keep it with property documents.

First check

Within 24 hours of installation, check every window:

  • Operation - opens, closes and locks cleanly.
  • Sealing - no draughts when closed.
  • External finish - sealant complete, frame to wall joints clean.
  • Internal finish - making good complete, no damage to walls or floors.
  • Glass - no scratches, no marks under the sealed unit, clear inside.

Report any issues immediately - installer warranties typically have specific time limits for snagging items, and prompt reporting gets faster resolution.

Long-term maintenance

  • Lubricate hinges and locks twice yearly with silicone spray.
  • Clean frames twice yearly with appropriate cleaners.
  • Inspect timber finishes annually and touch up small failures.
  • Check seals every few years and replace if hardened.
  • Address any issues promptly while warranties remain valid.


Budget planning

Phased replacement strategy

Where whole-house replacement is beyond budget, phasing across 2-3 years works well. Replace the worst windows first, then continue in priority order. The downside is two or three separate installations (each with set-up cost), but the cash flow advantage often justifies this.

Specification trade-offs

Within a single installation, specification varies window by window. Premium specifications on principal elevations (front of house, main living room) and main bedrooms. Standard specifications on side and back of house, less-used rooms. This deploys budget where it matters most.

What not to economise on

  • FENSA/Certass installer registration - non-registered installation creates compliance problems.
  • Multi-point locking - security baseline for any modern window.
  • Warranty cover - saves money over time even at higher initial spec.
  • Hardware quality on frequently-used windows - failures are inconvenient.

FAQ

How long does the whole window buying process take?

Should I tell installers my budget upfront?

Are window salespeople really commission-driven?

Can I install windows myself to save money?